IN SEARCH OF VULTURES

                                                                                                  Date: November 09, 2012

Dr. Asad Rahmani, the Director of BNHS, spoke vehemently about the status of the vultures in the country and the need to conserve their last known abodes. It was the winter of 2005 in the workshop of the Indian Bird Conservation Network in Mollem, Goa. We listened with apt attention and focus to what he had to say. At the back of my mind, the image of vultures gliding over the Goa Meat Complex courtyard in Usgao was vivid and I understood why we did not see them anymore. A small intervention by man in the form of a veterinary drug-diclofenac-had spelt doom for these majestic masters of the skies.

I and Pankaj had also documented a colony of nesting Long-billed Vultures (Gyps indicus) in the Chorla Ghat on the border of 3 states of Maharashtra, Goa and Karnataka. These vultures nested on the cliff from where the imposing twin-waterfalls of Vajrasakala cascaded down. The only vantage point to observe them was the opposite cliff way beyond the reach of any binocular or spotting-scope. The white dropping of the birds on the cliff rocks was the only evidence of their nesting. The only way to know for sure the number of active nests was to trek to the top of the waterfall and get a closer look.

Finally the day arrived when I, Pankaj, Nitesh and Sanket decided to enter the gorge of the River Valvanti, the source of the twin waterfall. Early morning we set out for what was to be the toughest trek of my life and one in which we risked limbs and lives to get up & close to the nesting vultures.

The entire trek was through the river bed, negotiating water pools, slippery rocks, steep slopes and deep gorges. Some were so tricky that a slip would end up with broken limbs and in a manner for nobody to help you. All this negotiating was done without any formal training of rock climbing or availability of gear. Our expedition was based on sheer resolve and the only encouragement was to count the number of active nests.

Over 2 ½ hours of arduous trek brought us to the last leg of our journey to the top of the waterfall. We realized that our best bet to observe the nesting vultures would be to get on to the ledge jutting out between the two waterfalls. To accomplish this we had to navigate a 1000 foot drop to the base of waterfall and a deep gorge. How we managed to do it God alone knows and the plants of Karvi (Carvia callosa) which provided us the much need support to hold on to our dear lives.

But once on the ledge, the scene was spectacular. The landscape below was breathtaking and the cool breeze rejuvenated our spirits. Vultures glided below effortlessly and it was for the first time that I actually observed these giants glide below us. Some were collecting nesting material for a total of 4 nests that we counted and a total of 12 birds.

The journey back was equally strenuous and at points we actually got to all our fours or clung on to rock faces. By the time we reached the Wilderness Resort, from where we had begun our journey, we were physically exhausted but our emotional state was one of triumph. Every bone and muscle in our body longed for rest and replenishment. That we had to travel another 70 odd kilometers to get back home on our 2-wheelers was not a very pleasant thought.

That night as I & Nitesh slept in the comfort of our home, I experienced hallucinations for the first and the last time in my life. I had illusions of falling from the cliffs, slipping over rocks, missing my step and each time that happened I was rudely awakened from sleep. Though my body longed to sleep my sub-conscious was still wandering in the gorge of the Valvanti. The next morning I narrated my experience to Nitesh, who had a hearty laugh but not before admitting that he too had similar illusions.

We followed this colony for over 4 years. Every monsoons they would migrate to escape the heavy monsoons in the Ghats and arrive back at the end of monsoons to start nesting. Every year their numbers dropped till 2009 when only one individual was sighted. This data was shared with BNHS and Peregrine Fund hoping for some conservation action on ground. No sign of the colony or any individual since has been seen in the locality. We only hope against hope that they have found a better place to breed and not met the fate that 99% of vultures all over the sub-continent have met.

I & Nitesh meanwhile documented 3 more colonies, one of White-backed Vultures (Gyps benghalensis) and 2 of Long-billed Vultures in various parts of the neighbouring district of Sindhudurg in Maharashtra. Goa on the other hand has lost all its vultures and every time I see the Vajrasakala Waterfall, I am reminded about the last vultures that we could call our own. 

THE VANARMARE: HUNTERS PAR EXCELLENCE

My love for the wild finds its origin in Amboli village where I not only got to see and experience wild animals up-close but various communities especially the Dhangars and the Vanarmare. While my thoughts on that one special Dhangar, whom I and my sibling grew to love, will be penned later, for the present read my article on the Vanarmare tribes. Pity that I did not carry a camera then.
http://www.tambdimati.com/article/amboli-all-those-years-ago/

The article was written on January 28, 2011 and the questions asked at the end, have come true. My colleague Dr. Sachin Tendulkar is trying his best to help a tribe back here in Goa. Check this link and support in any way you can. https://www.facebook.com/tendulkar1/media_set?set=a.10202896953010778.1073741830.1411128011&type=1 

WHAT NEXT!! .... An Environment & Development dilemma

This poem is a representation of the dilemma I face when confronted with issues of Environment & Development.

WHAT NEXT!!

It was a pleasant Friday morning

The bright sun shining

Into the city I walked

Unmindful of the killer that stalked

Axe after axe fell on the tree

Save me! Save me! cried the tree

I was hurt, I was outraged

Within no time the tree would bite the dust

And I stood there, wondering what next!!

Appeared a wise man to speak for the tree

Doesn’t it have the right to live free?

It provides you food, clothing and shelter

Without which you would be a pauper

Convinced appeared the woodcutter

But said I have to wield the axe for survival

Today morning someone lost his father

If it is not this tree, it would be some other

I still stood there as the woodcutter left

Wondering what next!!

CREATING FOOT SOLDIERS

INDIAN ENVIRONMENT ASSOCIATION – GOA CHAPTER

In association with

BIODIVERSITY RESEARCH CELL, CARMEL COLLEGE FOR WOMEN, NUVEM

 

HEXAPODA: A HANDS-ON ENTOMOLOGY WORKSHOP

Date: December 28-30, 2012                                                               Venue: Nature’s Nest, Tambdi-Surla

We are pleased to announce the first of its kind workshop to introduce students and amateurs from Goa to the science of Entomology. The workshop is planned with an aim to:

1.       Introduce the enthusiast to the amazing world of insects

2.       Kindle the interest towards proper documentation and data collection

3.       Create foot-soldiers to document the biodiversity of the State

4.       Introduce the initiated to the practical’s of entomology

5.       Introduce taxonomy of specific groups

The workshop will include theory on basics of entomology and conservation importance of insects, classification upto Orders, data collection on field, collection, preservation, mounting and display of specimen, tools (equipment) of the trade, introduction to taxonomy of specific groups through the use of stereo-microscope, session on photo-documentation, future prospects in entomology from the amateur and professional perspective, networking and use of social media.

The participants will be guided by Dr. Amol Patwardhan, an entomologist based in Thane with special interest in butterflies & beetles and Mr. Parag Rangnekar, a naturalist based in Goa with special interest in butterflies & dragonflies.

Desiring candidates will have to fill an “Application Form” and submit to Mr. Parag Rangnekar (rangnekarparag@gmail.com) on or before November 05, 2012. The selected candidates will be announced on December 01, 2012 and informed via email. Selected candidates will be charged a nominal entry fee of Rs. 200/- only. The workshop is supported by the Indian Environment Association-Goa Chapter. Participants from outside Goa will be charged a minimum fee of Rs.1,000/- only. The workshop will have not more than 22 participants.

The participants will be issued certificates at the end of workshop in association with the Biodiversity Research Cell, Carmel College for Women, Nuvem.

For further details contact Mr. Parag Rangnekar on +91-9822129811 or rangnekarparag@gmail.com

HILL-TOPPING: A MATE LOCATION BEHAVIOR IN BUTTERFLIES

Hill-topping, a behavioral trait exhibited by male butterflies, wherein individuals fly to the hilltops and establish territories. Butterflies can be seen darting around tree tops and chasing each other, the strongest individual securing the highest vantage position. It is thought that this results in preference of such males by female of the species, although there is little direct evidence to support this theory. I for one, believe it to be a normal territorial behavior or a mate-location behavior where the chances of contact with the opposite sex increases compared to a forested valley.

Colour Sergeant-Male

This phenomena is usually seen in areas where there are sudden elevation changes in the terrain and are of conservation importance due to the concentration of butterflies in a restricted area.

The activity can go on for days and in some locations throughout the year. Various species of butterflies exhibit this behavior with Nymphalids (Brush-footed butterflies) and Lycaenids (Blues) the most predominant. Most butterflies found at such locations are fast fliers, uncommon and with a patchy distribution.

Large Gauva Blue patrolling his territory

In Goa, this behaviour has been observed at various location but past experience holds me back from disclosing these locations so as to avoid congregation of enthusiasts and photography buffs, which could be detrimental to the butterflies themselves.

Additions to birds of Goa, India

The link below highlights the presence of 3 birds not reported earlier from the State, the Slaty-legged Crake (Rallina eurizonoides), Spotted Creeper (Salpornis spilonotus) and Streaked Weaver (Ploceus manyar).
http://www.indianbirds.in/Archives2011_7.2.html

Nest in Sugarcane plantation in Keri-Sattari

Streaked Weaver - Male

The paper, as any scientific/peer reviewed paper would, contains the latest tally of birds for Goa which stands at 462. After the work by Heinz Lainer and his report on 420 birds, the Zoological Survey of India in 2008, through the Fauna of Goa series added 38 species. The report by ZSI is based on work of Heinz Lainer and the birds in Appendix (contains unconfirmed records of birds that are difficult to identify in the field or are frequently misidentified, or are contentious for various other reasons) were also included.


Though scientific papers would list the birds species from Goa as 462, personally I feel that the bird count of the State is actually 425, since only five species have been added after the work by Heinz, one by Paul Holt and four by I and Pankaj Lad.

This does not mean that the species listed as unconfirmed cannot be found in the State.While birding picks up as a hobby within the youth, the importance of keeping notes and observations seems to be on the wane. The need to emphasize on importance of regular observations, monitoring and above all maintain data over just weekend birding and photography is felt more as bird habitats fast shrink or deteriorate in our State.
 

Shravani Aitar

 (This article appeared in the magazine Shravan - Bhadrapad (2008) published by Vivekanand Environment Awareness Brigade. The prolonged rain-showers this year prompted me to post this article a little late in the season)

The monsoons have receded, with the season of intermittent rain-showers and sunny moments making its appearance. The denizens of the jungle are shaking their drenched coats looking forward to soaking in the sunrays. The birds are chirping louder while the lone caterpillar after feasting on the green growth of the monsoons has decided its time to be a butterfly. Adult butterflies are searching for those open spaces with sunrays filtering in to gather energy from the Sun God. It’s also time for those with the penchant for these wild places, experiences and the lesser-fauna to step out with extra vigour and explore their surroundings. A time to spend the hard earned Sunday to rejuvenate ones senses after a week-long rigour of the work place. I luckily happen to be one of those who celebrate their “Shravani Aitar” in the jungles of the Sanhyadri. Those who wish to join have to pack their bags on Saturday morning lest we waste time in the evenings for our journey into the wilderness. This Sunday the destination is Savri Waterfalls in Netravali.

Travel from Panjim to Netravali via Margao, Chandor, Tilamol, Zambhauli, Rivona, Colamb is an experience in itself. But the picture of the enchanting Savri falls is always at the back of your minds. Stop at the Budbudyachi Tali, pay your homage to Lord Narayan and proceed straight towards the Amba Ghat. We are on our way to Mangal, the village of the Velip community atop a hill. The road to the village is a steep climb and in a bad shape. In other months our vehicle could have taken us directly to the village but not today. The evening rains which greeted us in Netravali have made the road unmotorable and it’s advisable to walk the 3 kms to the village. It’s dark by the time we reach the base, and the Cicada’s have already started their orchestra. The frogs are still around though not as plenty as a few months ago. We hear one calling very close and it’s a pretty loud call. Sangam decides to locate the call and we join him in his search. It’s not an easy task we realise and then behold under a fallen leaf of a Kumbyo (Carea arborea) tree, we find the smallest frog that we have ever seen with his vocal sacs larger then himself. Omkar as usual goes into frenzy with his camera and gets some pretty good images. He, you will realise, is developing into a good photographer and a keen observer.

Cat Snake

The walk is actually a climb but keep a watch around, its time for the snakes to be out. The last time we were here, we saw the Common Wolf Snake near a pile of laterite stones. But the night is too young today and it will be some time later that the probability of seeing snakes would be more. The night is cool but you are perspiring and short of breath by the time you reach the village. Rohidas Velip is eagerly waiting your arrival and is a little anxious too since you are more than an hour late. He has made arrangements for our stay in the local temple and the common facility centre constructed by the community recently. Being a temple premise, the food is obviously vegetarian, but the flavour is out of the world and I assure you that you will eat more than you usually do, especially after the climb to the village.

Sleep comes naturally in this setting and as you go out to “answer natures call” before you hit the bed, you hear the rasping calls of the Leopard somewhere far away in the distant hills. You know you are in the Netravali Wildlife Sanctuary, the largest sanctuary in Goa covering an area of 240 sq.km. Do not waste time chatting or playing Carrom with the local boys in the adjacent house and sleep well. Rising early is the key for a good “Aitar” and that is exactly what we are here for.  

I wake you up at 5.30 a.m. and you will see the women already busy with the daily chores. You on the other hand curse me and for a moment wonder why you are here away from the cosy comfort of your bed. But the assurance of a promising day in the jungles will urge you to get prepared for the day ahead. Rohidas is at the doorstep with a wide smile to greet you. Do not forget to thank him for his hospitality as he thanks you for coming and invites you again. Offer money for the food that was cooked by his family but do not offer him anything else, lest he gets offended. A shake of hands or a hug on the other hand will widen his smile from ear to ear. The sky is changing shades as you walk down the hill and is showing various shades of blue.

Stop near the Netravali Panchayat and if you are lucky, the road side hotel will be open. Treat yourself to a hot cup of tea. The fragrance of the tea and the village atmosphere prepares you for what lies ahead. Turn on to your right from Netravali and park your vehicle where the tar road ends. You have arrived in the Savri village to begin the real journey.

The Draco

You may feel that the walk through the village may not be good enough. But think twice and keep a watch around. The Draco is best sighted here as it glides between coconut trees, in the dense jungles it may be difficult to sight. The red coloured spikes of the Clerodendron are like magnets to many butterflies especially the Blue Mormon and the majestic Southern Birdwing, the largest butterfly in India. Do not run behind these for a photograph since they are fast fliers. Patience is a virtue when photographing butterflies. Wait patiently but be alert and they will give you a chance when they settle for a few seconds to sip in the nectar from the flowers.

Walk along the water channel carved in the hill side and stop at the place where the locals have put a diversion bandhara to irrigate their fields. Look around and you will realize that you are in a paradise for butterfly watchers. The Common Hedge Blues, the Line Blues, the lone Angled Pierrot and the Ceruleans will always be there mud-puddling by the river side. The Soldier, the Grey Pansy, Tamil Yeoman and the Leopard will be basking on the shrubs by the river side and may be joined by the handsome Cruiser and the Red Spot Duke. It’s also the time for the magical Malabar Tree Nymph to glide in the canopy. You will see why they call this butterfly the nymph as it glides like a fairy through the trees. There cannot be a better sight than this and the image will transpire in front of your eyes everytime you close them and think about the butterfly.

You may have ignored the dragonflies and damselflies before but not today. One, because they are too many to ignore and two, because I am with you. I have grown to love these creatures over the last few months and have been able to explore their world to be astonished by their diversity. Omkar has caught this bug too and is growing confident with every passing day. Ignore his antics while trying to photograph the rare Pied Reed Tail, let me help you in identifying the common ones. The tiny Stream Ruby on the rocks is not uncommon and a wonderful sight when it flashes the brilliant red in its wings. Do not mistake the one sitting next to it as a different species; it is the female though it looks completely different. The adjacent vegetation is a great haunt for the Black-tipped Forest Glory. It is all over the place but somehow knows about your presence and all your attempts to get a good close up image will be in vain. Waiting patiently will help but we need to go ahead.

Walking in the river bed has its own charm. Do not follow those who jump over rocks. Wade into the water and experience the refreshing feeling unmatched by anything else. The next bend in the river will bring you face to face with my most loved waterfall…. The Savri. No other waterfall I have seen falls with such gusto with its waters having a musical tone to it. Take a dip but venture into deeper water only of you can swim. The cold waters are not for the faint hearted as you will miss a breath at the first contact with your skin. But I am sure you will not miss the chance. For those who want to dip only their feet, keep them still for the fish to clean them of dead skin and debris.

Being one in the jungle can lead to loosing track of time. We can’t afford to do that. Need to get back to the office and the daily routine tomorrow. The thought is unsettling. I do not know about you but the dip in the crystal clear waters of Savri will keep me going for the week as I look forward for the next “Aitar”